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Lazy holidays and tranquil, wine-filled lunches become a thing of the past when you reach parent status. David and Jen Rogers bundled their toddlers into the car and headed for the Arniston Hotel - and soon discovered taking their kids on holiday is quite a challenging experience.
So where do you go on holiday when you have two children under the age of three? Camping seemed too much like hard work and anyway, Jen and I rather fancied a weekend in a hotel close to Cape Town. The search was on and eventually it was the Arniston Hotel that gave us the green light. It's the sort of place that allows children, but isn't a bombproof, children's dining area kind of hotel.
"Three beds and a cot - look forward to seeing you Friday," said the woman at reception.
Jen had run her own B&B and graded luxury establishments and I've written about hundreds of very expensive hotels. But doing it with the kids was new to both of us.
"Maybe I'll have time for a massage," hoped Jen. I was so optimistic that I'd strapped my surf ski to the roof. But as we passed the Cape Agulhas turn-off, a big black cloud engulfed our dreams and we were faced with the gloomy prospect of being stuck indoors for two days in a four-star hotel with two toddlers.
A relaxing break? Not quite …
A porter helped me carry the pram, plastic motorcycle, kiddie rucksack, bicycle with kiddie carrier, nappy bags and countless other bags through the sparkling white hotel and up to our room. Jen and I agreed it was very elegant and had earned its stars easily. Our room, although not the best in the hotel, was spacious and all we needed for a comfortable stay.
The children also inspected: one dialled reception, the other sucked on the remote. So we fled downstairs into the lounge area. The hotel had changed quite a bit since my last visit and the bar-cum-lounge-cum-restaurant was now open plan with large plasma screens, marine fish tanks and fireplaces in two corners. One area had been taken over by a family and we joined them for a beer and lunch while we kept an eye on our happily occupied children.
Eventually the weather improved enough for us to take a walk down to the seafront with its quaint fishing boat harbour and picturesque village of strandhuise (beach houses).
"Bulldozer," said my toddler and scampering off up a yellow machine, which clearly held far more interest than any boat, beach or natural scene could ever offer.
"Da," said the baby picking at a fish head left on the wharf and popping it into his mouth.
Arniston of old
When I was a kid I'd hitch up to Arniston with my buddies and surf until we were so tired we could hardly walk. The town has changed little in the 30 years since, with Kassiesbaai's whitewashed fishing village still breathing character into the place. No developers have been able to change this and long may that last.
We used to hang out on Roman Beach, watching great plumes of seawater being blown up through the blowholes. When the water was low we crawled into the massive cave called Waenhuiskrans (so named because early settlers thought the size and shape resembled a wagon house) and sipped on Old Brown Sherry with our gals. It's still a great spot to go and sit at.
A shallow limestone bank runs off the shore at Arniston and this gives the sea an aquamarine colour - but don't be fooled by its tropical appearance. If you visit the Bredasdorp Shipwreck Museum you'll hear the stories of ships that ran aground on this stormy coast. The ship which gave its name to the town was a troop carrier on its way from Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) to England and took with it 372 men. It is said that many roofs in the area are still held up by the timbers from this ill-fated ship.
Just east of the town is De Hoop Nature Reserve which, in addition to having 50 000 hectares of glorious fynbos, also has a pristine shoreline. Hundreds of southern right whales calve off the coast from August through to January and you can easily spot them anywhere on this coastline. Head in the other direction (west) and you'll hit Cape Agulhas with its lighthouse museum at the very southern tip of Africa.
Smoked salmon, cheeses and a baby-sitter
Although our holidays have become about the children, Jen and I, as a couple, did have our moments. The breakfast spreads (mountains of smoked salmon and cheeses included) were memorable and while a high chair was provided, nobody seemed to mind the detritus left in our wake.
Jen and I also went out for dinner. At 20h00 a charming young baby-sitter took the baton and we skipped down the passage for dinner. Mushroom soup, curry and rice, my gal, the waves through the window - I could've been 20 again.
On our last morning we were packed and ready to go by nine. We were exhausted having spent two trying days pent up in a hotel in rainy weather.
"Do come back," said the manager.
Considering our impact on the hotel, I thought this was a very kind offer - and I'd love to do so. However, if it's with the children, then its going to be in a few years' time. After the weekend, I can't say we felt rested - but pain is quickly forgotten. I'm sure I'll soon pluck up the courage to arrange another family holiday.
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