A few months ago I had the opportunity to go home to Durban and dip into both the warm seas and the currents of change swirling through this multicultural, balmy city. What I found was inspiring.
It seems that the longer you stay away from Durban, the more nostalgic and patriotic you become, as Rosa Lyster aptly notes in ‘Essay 36: DURBS DURBS DURBS’. I find myself regaling whoever will listen (usually Uber drivers) about how it’s just so wonderful, so unpretentious, so diverse. Well, it is.
And to top it all off, Durban is getting even better with new developments and creative hubs transforming the city spaces. There is much more to do now, but the core of Durban is still the same.
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…The same could be said for Durban!
On the left, Britannia Hotel’s curries are famous; on the right, Distillery 031 serves lunch as well as a selection of artisan spirits.
Head to the Morning Trade on Sundays for great food and goods.
Morning Trade is a perfect spot for some relaxed early-morning coffee and browsing.
The decorating haven of Con Amore, and inside, Lovin’ Coffee.
I stayed at the leafy Mythai Guesthouse, at the top of Florida Road.
Ethiopian cuisine at the Habesha Cafe is best shared, so you can mix and match dishes.
Take a Street Scene tour through Warwick Triangle, and make sure you finish off with a bunny chow at the Workshop.
The Victoria Street Market is a wonderful spot for buying spices.
Ekasi Drive-Thru, serving gourmet food in Kwa-Mashu, is a must-visit.
On the left, Trevor from Firebird Coffee; on the right, Reese Easthorpe, retail curator at 8 Morrison Street.
Ike’s Bookstore is full of antique and collectible books on every topic imaginable.
D’Urban Elephant is an interesting, light-filled escape in the Glenwood suburbs.
The yellow container of Afro’s Chicken on the beachfront, which has become a promenade icon.
On the left, sunset is the perfect time to take a stroll along the promenade; on the right, reggae music at Wahooz Cafe is enjoyed by all.
The beautifully soft evening light at Moyo Pier.
This story first appeared in the July 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.
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