Looking at a radar of weekend-away from the city missions, if a blip appeared for Grabouw, in the Elgin Valley the usual response would be to lean in close to the screen, gently exhale and polish with a pulled-forward shirt-sleeve. A speck of dust? A crumb from a hastily-munched Monday muesli? Grabouw, in my mind at least, offers only one real attraction – it is the venue of the Houwteq Downhill Skating competition, which happens on one day of the year, and after which everyone drags their weary bodies back to the city. To head to Grabouw from Cape Town (one of South Africa’s top 13 scenic drives) for the purpose of spending a night or two away from the urban humdrum would seem, to me, a very questionable decision indeed. The blip which appeared on my radar this weekend marking the Cape Pine Cabins at Eikenhof dam is not, however, a temporary screen-splodge, quickly to be wiped away and forgotten.
Driving out toward Grabouw was particularly beautiful over the weekend. The snow-capped mountains, forming a strangely Northern-hemispheric backdrop for the green foothills behind Somerset West, were a precursor to what would be a distinctly northern-hemispheric-feeling night in the woods. The steely evening surface of Eikenhof dam, rimmed as it is with tall pine plantations, reminded my housemate of his recent trip to Norway, and reminded me equally of pine-lined lakes in Canada. This was only accentuated by the temperatures which got steadily icier as the dark set in. Luckily there are few things I enjoy more than standing around a big fire, sipping on whiskey.
I happened to be there for the 21st birthday of a friend’s sister – needless to say it all got a little bit merry, but the remote location of the cottages (and the fact that all of them had been booked out for our purposes) meant that people could drum away and hoot with laughter without too much concern for disturbing anybody else’s peace. The flame-streaks of fire-poi and the unpolluted starscape made for endless long-exposure happy-snapping. Having forgotten a head-torch, my flashlite phone app (get smart with these outdoor apps) came in handy navigating the pine stumps on the way to the water’s edge, not to mention painting trees in the foreground with some light.
Had we had more time (and been feeling less fragile) in the morning we might have explored the many hiking trails; done a spot of fishing or canoeing on the dam; or tossed a frisbee on the grass in front of the cottages. As it was, we were able to leave Cape Town at 16:30 on Saturday and be back in the city by 12:30 on Sunday (Grabouw is an easy hour-long drive away) and feel, despite the short time we had been away, as if we’d had a proper break.
Location
The dam is a few kilometres outside Grabouw. Take the N2 out of Cape Town – look out for the ridiculous pirate ships outside Cape Town Film Studios on your left before Somerset West. Go through Somerset West and over Sir Lowry’s pass. Turn left off the N2 at the R321 and follow it into Grabouw before turning off onto Worcester Street. Follow this road out of town, peeling off it at the railway crossing. You will then follow a slightly sketchy tar road passed apple orchards to the Cape Pine gate, where someone will let you in. You need to pre-book your accommodation.
Cape Town film studio visible from the N2 before Somerset West
Pine plantations line the calm waters of the Eikenhof dam
Accommodation
There is enough accommodation at the Eikenhof dam to sleep 44 people in typical hiking-hut style bunks (with mattresses more than typically comfortable for such locations). There is no electricity, but the cottages are well equipped with gas lamps and facilities for cooking. The lapa kitchen has a walk-in cage (presumably an anti-baboon measure) with plenty of cutlery, crockery etc. All you need to take with you is warm bedding, towels, toiletries and whatever food you are going to eat. Fire wood is available en-masse, but organizing for its delivery was a bit of a mission. Working out to about R100 a head for the night – depending on numbers – this is as cheap a place to stay as you can justifiably hope to find.
Find more accommodation in Grabouw here
