A cook and a helicopter pilot walk into a bar

Posted by Anita Froneman on 4 July 2022

The cook is Sue Fenwick and the helicopter pilot is her husband, Phil. The two of them built the oldest guest house on the southernmost tip of Africa, Agulhas Country Lodge, in 1997 and have been operating ever since.

Agulhas country lodge

Phil flew choppers for the South African Air Force for twenty years and earned several important medals as a pilot, including the Air Force Cross for Bravery for his role in the rescue of passengers off the Oceanos vessel that sunk in 1991. Phil tells stories of days gone by while pouring me another glass of wine from behind the bar. The bar counter was, in fact, the original bank counter years ago in the mining village of Koegas in the Northern Cape.

Sue pops in with a dishcloth over her shoulder, she’s busy whipping up dinner in the kitchen. The food at the lodge is locally sourced, with fresh fish from the local harbour and lamb from a farm in the area. But tonight we eat vegetarian, and it’s the best I’ve ever had. Roasted cauliflower and garlic soup kicks us off, followed by creamy risotto with spinach, tomato and feta. I barely had space for dessert but I wasn’t going to miss out on the soft avo mousse with lemon curd on the side.

READ: Into the big heart of the Klein Karoo

Sue is such an avid cook that you can even find her recipes online, and trust me – you’ll want to make them.

The eight rooms are comfortable and inviting, and all have dazzling views of the ocean. Besides the restaurant and popular bar of stories, you can recline with a book by the fireplace in the lounge or take in the view from the balcony.


From the lodge, it’s easy walking distance to Agulhas National Park where famous attractions like the Cape Agulhas Lighthouse and the Meisho Maru shipwreck wait. The lighthouse was only the third lighthouse ever to be built in South Africa, and today is the second-oldest one still operating.

Picture: Anita Froneman

Meisho Maru

Picture: Anita Froneman

But the real drawcard is, of course, the point where the Atlantic and Indian oceans supposedly meet. Actually, the oceans mix in a big stretch of water kilometres long, but the monument telling you you’ve arrived at the southernmost tip of the continent is truly special.

Picture: Anita Froneman

If you keep walking long enough, you’ll find a brilliant little lagoon and ancient Khoisan fish traps in the reserve.

Picture: Anita Froneman


From R995 per person sharing.

Contact +27 28 4357650 or [email protected]

In-house dinner and lunch are only available for groups of eight or more. Breakfast is included.

Agulhas Country Lodge is a member of Cape Country Routes, a nifty marketing group that offers the best accommodation, activities and trip planning advice for the Western and Eastern Cape. View their special offers and holiday packages.

Pictures: Supplied


Cheers! South Africa’s wonderful wine routes



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