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Chris Davies and I tackled this infamous, and stunningly beautiful, 90km trail in Namibia. Here is our guide to hiking the Fish River Canyon yourself.


Beginning the descent into the Fish River Canyon

Beginning the descent into the canyon. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

‘I heard people lose their toenails on the steep descent. And that bugs crawl into your ears at night so you have to stuff them with cotton wool.’

‘Well, I heard that there are only two emergency exits, and the only rescue is by helicopter.’

This was how the conversation flowed at our pre-hike planning session at the Devil’s Peak Brewery the week before departure. We’re poring over incomplete medical forms downloaded off the Internet and struggling to make ourselves heard over the trendy blues music wafting from the live musician behind us.

The issue was glaringly obvious: none of us had a source of information which we could trust and compare against. Some reports claimed the hike was a breeze, you could practically trot it in a few days, while others stated that only Serious Hikers with Extensive Experience should attempt it.

On our third or so round, we decided to throw in the stress towel and just see what awaited us.


The team. Photo by a crowd member

The team. Photo by a jealous bystander.

The Fish River Canyon is immense. We stood on the edge, shifting our unruly backpacks, while an unfriendly sign warning against day hikers held back the crowd around us. Feeling just a little self-important, we took the first steps towards the chain handrail. We had no idea of what to expect, and the combination of exhilaration and anticipation was palpable.


Day 1: The descent

It’s not so bad! Yes, it’s steep, and getting used to the dimensions of All That Stuff you’ve packed onto your back takes a while. It took us around an hour and a half to descend the canyon wall. We reached the bottom around midday and were given our first introduction to the Fish River. It looked unappetisingly murky. After a brief lunch, we continued hiking and stopped for the night after 5km.


Survival tips

  1. Fill up all your water at Hobas campsite before departing.
  2. If you leave your vehicles in Ai-Ais (where the trail ends) you can arrange a lift with the NWR park officials from Ai-Ais to the start of the trail on the canyon edge (R150 per person – minimum of R450 per trip). If you’re leaving a vehicle at Hobas, you have to leave it at the campsite – about 10km from where the trail actually begins. We left a vehicle in Hobas and drove everyone to the start. Then the driver returned the car to camp and hitched a ride back to the canyon. There’s a lot of traffic along the access road so it only took a few minutes to find a lift.
  3. Don’t leave your Ai-Ais keys in your Hobas car like we did.
  4. Pack fancy food: this is your last chance to eat decently, so feel free to take along luxury food items to eat and drink on the first night – just remember that any tins and rubbish will have to be carried with you for the duration of the hike – or burnt in a fire along the way. Spread firewood amongst your group and take it along with you on the descent. Wood is scarce along the trail on the first day.
  5. Don’t drink all your wine on the first night.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Roehan leading the way on the descent down. Photo by Chris Davies.


Slowly making our way down. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe

Slowly making our way down. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Our first campsite, just before the section called The Rapids. Photo by Chris Davies.


Day 2: Hot springs

This is the hardest day in terms of terrain – plenty of trudging through thick sand and clambering up and over loose rocks. We only covered about 12km in approximately 7 hours of hiking and were starting to worry about our pace at this point – how on earth were we going to finish 90km in the 5 days, 4 nights we’d allowed for??!

We camped that night at the Palm (Sulphur) Springs, by far the highlight of our journey. You soon stop noticing the faintly eggy smell as the deliciously warm water makes friends with your aching muscles. The spring trickles out from a hole on the bank and flows 30m down a narrow channel into the main river. It’s 65oC as it comes out, so way too hot to bathe in, but becomes perfect as it flows into the river and mixes with the colder river water. That night we flopped into the shallow, muddy rock pools on the river’s edge and stargazed from our natural hot-tub.

By now we’d worked out that the best piece of equipment brought with was Chris’s water pump, which we lovingly renamed Pumpous Maximous. Drinking water from the opaque river really isn’t appealing – especially near the springs – but after passing through the pump it tasted better than the tap water at home. Glad we never had to use the nasty chlorine tablets we had as backup.


Survival tips

  1. Flavour your water with Game or a similar energy/rehydrating powder – especially if you are using chlorine tablets or drops. It tastes better and helps keep dehydration at bay.
  2. Keep an eye on your map for motivation. In fact the photocopied map we got at the start was barely legible (try this one instead). The offline mapping app we used was an excellent addition.
  3. Watch your step! The first of the boulder hopping begins on this stretch, and a misplaced step will end your hike. Even a minor twisted ankle would completely ruin the experience, and small hurts will only be magnified along the route. If your feet get wet, stop and dry them before continuing.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Start of day two held the trickiest terrain, which was still very manageable (even to myself, an inexperienced climber). Photo by Chris Davies.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Vidi the scooter is the last of the trio, Veni, Vidi & Vici, that made their way down the canyon in an expedition in 1968. More info about the trip can be found here. Vidi has recently been repainted a more zebra-like black and white. For more info see the comments below. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Worn-out shoes and clothing left at the scooter, an unexpected tribute. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Yay! Boulders. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

It doesn’t really matter which side of the Fish River you choose to walk, but you can cut the corners if you take the inside bank on wide bends. Photo by Chris Davies.


Harsh shadows and Chris rocking it out on a... rock.

Harsh shadows and Chris rocking it out on a… rock. Our Capture Pro camera clip came in very handy on this trip! Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

The oranges of the late afternoon sun sets the canyon walls aflame. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Late afternoon shenanigans at the Palm (Sulphur) Springs. Photo by Chris Davies.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Typical early-morning wake-up scenes around the campsite. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Day 3: The long haul

This day involves some trudging through thick sand and over rocks, but it gets easier as the day goes on.

We awoke to find a group of hikers passing us – but going in the wrong direction. We recognized them from a few days earlier when we passed through Ai-Ais, where they’d told us they’d just finished the hike in three days. We could only assume they had walked the canyon, stopped at Ai-Ais, and then turned around and walked back along the canyon to Hobas. This feat of insanity became the main source of our conversation for what was to be our longest, and perhaps toughest day’s walk.

By now our routine was to start walking at 9:30ish, grab a quick lunch at 13:30ish and camp at 16:30ish so we’d have time to swim and chill.

However today, breaking for lunch around 13:30 was a mistake. After taking off our shoes, having a quick dip in the river, and lying about on the warm rocks for a hour, our muscles seized up and the last part of the day became unbearable. Except for Ann. She bounced up ahead along the path while I cursed her disappearing back.

It’s a long day – we started day three having hiked only 17km, and set camp that night at just over the 40km mark (group high-five).


Survival tips

  1. Take short snack breaks, not lengthy lunches. Keep food on you to pick at while you walk.
  2. Make sure you have all the essentials covered: plenty of water, suncream and a hat.
  3. Use high-top boots if you can – they help to keep the sand out of your socks.
  4. Start working on your random conversation skills, because all sorts of topics come up to pass the time.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Checking on blisters and refilling water bottles at lunch time. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Me battling along, far behind everyone on the third day. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Having just passed the 40km mark, we used up our last energy reserves to get to Dassie Ridge, our camping spot for the night. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Jarryd pushing on over the small rocks, which cover the canyon floor as far as the eye can see. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

THANK GOODNESS! Rest stop for the night at Dassie Ridge. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

We are all absolutely knackered. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

The night’s sky reveals the bowl of mountains that we found ourselves in. I realise I can use a pot as a tripod. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Day 4: Speed boosters

This day involves some trudging through thick sand and over loose rocks, but I felt good. My bag was significantly lighter, and I doggedly forged to the front of our evenly-paced hiking pack.

Day four is mostly level with a few handy shortcuts over some low mountains. We’re not sure how much distance we actually covered on day four – the shortcuts shaved off significant chunks – but we ended the day just past the 70km mark. That would make this the longest day at nearly 30km, but judging by the time we took we guessed actual ground covered was similar or slightly less than day three – somewhere around 23km.

The shortcuts also awarded us changes in scenery and beautiful views of the canyon floor. The pace had picked up exponentially since the first two days and we realized our fears of not making our five-day goal were unfounded.


Survival tips

  1. Keep a close eye on your map for the shortcuts. Most are clearly marked on the trail with white paint on prominent rocks, but you might miss them if you’re not sure where you are.
  2. Take painkillers, creams and plasters for blisters and other aches.
  3. Make sure you’re carrying plenty of water before attempting a shortcut. The trail is hotter up off the canyon floor and although the climbs are short, they’re steep and thirsty work after four days of hiking.
  4. Look out for the grave of the German soldier which (at our pace) you should reach at about lunch time on the fourth day. There’s a nice spot for a quick lunch break less than a kilometre further on.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Beautiful views as Phil walks down the shortcut back to the river. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Group photo! Photo by Chris Davies.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Chris and Phil consulting The Map. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Clouds roll in as we see our first sign of humanity – a concrete causeway road across the river. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

…which leads to what used to be – or might yet be – a tuck-shop selling drinks to passing hikers. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Ominous skies over Phil on the eve of night four. Photo by Chris Davies.


Day 5: Drink all the beer

The last stretch! Yes, there’s sand and some loose rocks, but it’s flat and fairly easy going.

We woke this morning to rain. It wasn’t hard, but the persistent drizzle was quickly soaking packs, and those who had slept in the open understandably wanted to get going and hit the trail. Our eagerness to reach the finish line was only amplified as we walked, taunted by the thought of a hot shower and proper food at Ai-Ais. The last section of the hike is endless, and by now it’s fair to say we were happy to reach the end and exchange our backpacks for a cold beer.


Survival tips

  1. Enjoy the last bit of it. You’ll soon miss it, I promise you.
  2. Make bets on your arrival time (person with worst time-guessing (me) owes everyone a round!).
  3. Look around at the increased animal activity and write your name on the canyon floor in small rocks.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

The 80km mark and we’re all tired, but ecstatic! Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

At last! We’ve reached Ai-Ais. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Elation is a mug of cold beer. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

Last group pic. Photo by a kind passerby.


Fish River Canyon Hike Namibia Getaway Magazine

En route to fetch our cars from Hobas. Transfers from Ai-Ais to Hobas cost R150 per person (minimum rate R450 each way). Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.


In conclusion

Why do it? Because when you finish, you will miss those canyon walls. Life is a simple mix of walking, eating, laughing and boulder-hopping. At night, the canyon encircles you in its dark arms and you fall asleep to a sky pricked by the light of countless stars. For those of you who love a bit of healthy outdoor exercise and camping, it’s an experience you will never forget.

Fitness level: Moderate. Endurance is essential; must be able to handle long days of walking; there are a few short, steep climbs.

Experience needed: Minimal. Must be nimble on your feet though, with all that boulder-hopping.

Difficulty: We concluded it was perhaps slightly easier than the Otter trail, with its up-and-down terrain, but the long days do take their toll. Plan for six days if you’re nervous.

Paperwork: Yes, you do need to complete a medical clearance form and have it certified/signed by a doctor. Download the form here. You also need to complete a conservation declaration. Both must be presented at the office in Hobas before you start. (These forms were correct as of August 2015).

Map: Print out the route map before you leave as the office often runs out of copies. Download a map here.


Food and drink

A water filter pump is a huge advantage. Water purification tablets if not. If taking alcohol, decant it into plastic bottles before you leave. For meals we took:

Breakfast: Oat-So Easy or our own pre-mixed cereal.

Lunch: Provitas, Laughing Cow, biltong, snack bars, dried fruit and nuts, salami and tuna packets. Sweets and more snack bars for an energy kick on the trail.

Dinner: Back Country Cuisine freeze-dried meals (available at various outdoor stores) were excellent, although quite expensive. If you’re going for them, the Chicken Tikka Masala, Moroccan Lamb, and Roast Chicken and Mash were our favourites. One serving feeds one ravenous person, or two with lighter appetites. Two-minute noodles and extra sauce sachets filled in the gaps. Take some powdered soups in case you’re still hungry. You can also have a look at the Getaway taste-tests of popular lightweight hiking meals.



You can either sleep in the open (take a groundsheet for rain cover) or in a lightweight tent. We had a mix in our group, and those sleeping in tents got the better sleep. The wind picked up at night and sand in the face isn’t a great thing to wake up to. If you take a tent, you can leave the fly-sheet behind (at home!) to save some weight. Take a super-warm sleeping bag regardless. Thermals help too.


When to go

Book for new moon, when the night sky will be best displayed. It’s beautiful. The trail is popular so you’ll probably also need to book at least a year in advance. It’s only open from 1 May to 15 September (the drier months of the year), and is most busy during the South African and Namibian school holidays. Be prepared for the possibility of some light drizzle, but it doesn’t usually rain hard in winter.

A maximum of 30 people are allowed to start the trail on the same day. Bookings of less than three people are not allowed. Children under 12 are not allowed.



The hike costs R300 per person and is secured via a deposit of 10% (this is the 2016 rate, which has increased this year – it was R275 per person in 2015). Once at Hobas, you will need to pay park entry fees of R30 (Namibian citizens), R60 (SADC citizens) and R80 (international citizens), as well as vehicle fees of R10 per vehicle to drive to the trail’s start.

It’s advisable to camp at either Hobas or Ai-Ais before and after the hike. There is a shuttle running from Ai-Ais to Hobas which costs R150 per person, with a minimum charge of R450 per trip.

Access to the hot springs at Ai-Ais at the end of the trail costs R10 per person.

All prices correct as of August 2015. Please check with Namibia Wildlife Resorts for the latest fees when making your booking.


How to book

Namibia Wildlife Resorts
Cape Town Office
Telephone: +27 (0)21 422 3761


The September 2015 issue of Getaway magazine is dedicated to all things walking and hiking, with inspiring stories, gear reviews and great competitions galore. Get your copy today.

Get this issue →


  • Inus du Plessis

    Great article! Information about stuff that matters with useful links. And the pictures are really good as well.

  • Michael

    Well written article with great pictures. We did the trail in August 1982 shortly before it was closed. They had to drop water barrels half way. It was tough and we had to carry 4 litres of water each. Worth the ice cold lagers at the end

  • Rene Naegeli

    Thanks for the info and the stunning pics. Will do the hike in two weeks time. Very exited and looking forward to the adventure !

  • Love the tips. I tried making a booking for next year a while back and it was almost fully booked in the popular times of the year (for bigger groups).

  • This brings back great memories when my father and I did this trip in either 1969 or 1970 (I was aged 13). We had no maps – simply followed the river. It took 5 days, 4 nights. The year before (1968/9), we were visiting the canyon and met 3 young guys who were attempting the trip on scooters. We later read in the newspaper that they were unsuccessful and abandoned their scooters at the bottom – presumably that is their scooter in one of the photos above.

    • It is a very small world. My name is Tony Beckley and I was one of the young men you mentioned. In 1968 together with six other members of our group we took 3 Vespas “Veni, Vidi & Vici into the canyon. Now prophetically almost 50 years later Vidi (I saw) has survived and has seen large numbers of trekkers from all over the world pass her by. You can see our story on the web at:

      • Chris Davies

        So glad you got in touch Tony. What a wonderful set of documents your website is. Thank you for sharing it!

        • Thanks for your comments Chris. I try to keep track of what’s happening in the canyon and would like to compliment you on your informative article and helpful tips. Also the great pics by Teagan.
          As you might have noticed, there is a section on our site devoted to current sighting of the Vespa. I would like to include Teagan’s photo of ‘Vidi’ with hers and your permission. Since your article Vidi has been transformed from those garish colours to be more environmentally acceptable. She now sports black and white zebra stripes.

          • Chris Davies

            Thanks Tony – glad you enjoyed Teagan’s photos (and the words are hers too). I’ve checked with Teagan and by all means you can use the photo of Vidi. Just credit Teagan Cunniffe and link to this article please. Can’t wait to get back there and see the new stripes.

          • Hi Tony, great to hear from you. We met at the “Roadhouse” when you were presenting the zebra Vespa to their museum there, and had stayed at the Canyon Lodge with you. Glad to hear you are still keeping well and we’re still planning that walk ourselves. Regards from Knysna! Sue Mills

  • Ryno – great time

    Great article and tips. We were 4 who did the trip. Me; my 15 year old son and friends did the trip in June 2015.
    The weather was great and we slept without a tent. (Although I would have taken my tent)
    My tip would be to make sure that you shoes are well worn in as this will help to have less blisters.
    I had a great time and will do it again again any day.

  • Stefan Fourie

    Very useful tips, you learn a lot from hikers who have done the Canyon before. Every year the Grade 7 scholars from Keetmanshoop Private School hikes the Canyon and they nailed it every time, finishing never later than 10:00 on the fifth day. If those kids can do it, most moderate fit grown-ups can too. Its a mind thing, just believe that you can make it.
    For the more adventures, every year during the weekend in July in which it is full moon, the Canyon Extreme Marathon takes place. You have 24 hours to finish the full Canyon. There is a shorter version too, you decent down the emergency exit near Palm Springs, that gives you 65km to the finish. THIS IS A BLAST!!

    • Stefan, do you lead these school groups?

      • The Getaway story is a lovely and well written account with loads of useful information. My own story, in contrast, tells of what can be experienced if you don’t prepare yourself adequately. I am not proud of myself, but it is important to me to keep my writings real. Here is what happened when I did this hike in May 2014.

  • Esther

    It is not advisable to leave the flysheet of your tent behind!!!! And also not recommended to be published by a magazine like Getaway!!! The people who go down each year after the season has ended to clean up the canyon, have to carry all those things out. Bad behaviour!!

    • Chris Davies

      🙂 We meant ‘leave behind at home’ – to save weight in your pack. I can’t imagine that any conscientious person would leave their flysheet in the canyon, although sadly we did see a fair bit of rubbish here and there (and picked up what we could carry to dispose of at the end of the trail).

    • Arddyn

      She meant leave it at home….behind at home, not in the canyon!

  • sealja

    great article – i felt like i was right there !! thanks. the best advise we got whilst researching our trail adventure was to take an extra day and enjoy the first section of the canyon – it is generally once in a lifetime experience for most and no reason to rush through the canyon ! that extra time was precious.

  • Andrew Ford

    A really good and accurate article. I agree with pretty much everything you say but people in my group did struggle. I hiked the canyon in May this year and the river was quite wide. So water was better to drink but crossing the thing got tiresome. I’ve read a lot of other blogs but this one captures my experience the closest. I did however miss the steps at Ais Ais and had to climb the wall.

    • Haha, shame! That’s tough luck on the stairs aspect- last thing you need when you’ve made it to the end and have screaming blisters. We had very little water to cross and that definitely made the hike easier on us.

      It must have been quite beautiful with all that water though…

  • Ole

    I will be doing this with a friend and we are looking forward to the fun packed experience.

  • Chantelle

    One of the best hikes I’ve ever done! Amazing experience – I highly recommend it!

  • Tania

    We will be starting the walk 17 May 2016. Any ideas about weather at this time?? This will lead me to know what shoes to bring. (Whoo hooo found a 950g tent in Europe) Also is it possible to walk in the water some of it without getting sand in your shoes, because wet shoes and sand has blisters written all over it!!
    How many pairs of shoes did most of you take?
    Thanx in advance! We are so excited:-))))

    • Adele du Toit

      Tania, you don`t want to sell your tent after walking the trail. I need one–walking the trail from 5 June 2016. You can wear covers over your shoes to prevent sand in the shoes. Hope you enjoy it. Ragards Adele

    • Emma

      Hi Tania. I am starting the trail on 17 May 2017, so interested to hear how you find the weather this year. Hope you have a very enjoyable hike.

    • edwin de jongh

      Hallo Tania
      How was the weather? and what was the level of the river?
      Hope to hear from you.
      I am hiking from the 30th June to 4 July 2016

  • Great article — I remember reading and enjoying it, when it was first published. And now I’m re-reading it as a source of info for my upcoming hike in the canyon next week. I’m so excited and can relate to most of the pre-hike anxiousness.
    I really appreciate the links and the detailed info.
    Thank you for writing this 🙂

    • Hi Marie, thank you. Chris and I enjoyed putting it together. I am so envious that you are returning. It’s one of those hikes that stays with you even after it is done, and I hope to return one day.

      Good luck and enjoy those beautiful night skies!

  • Tai Kamiya

    I am hiking Fish River Canyon next year but have never done a multi-day hike before, so I need this mental prep! Thanks for this article!

  • Natasha

    I am doing the hike quite soon and am buying a new backpack. Not 100% sure of what size to go for. Any suggestions?

  • Kuba Miszewski

    This year I did the hike for the 9th time. My first trip was in 1972. We mapped the Canyon on this trip, to this day I use this map. I have never used water purifying tablets nor a pump; we always found water, even when we did it with no water in the river. 2011 I had the highest water level, having to do +/- 5 crossings a day; I just walked straight through letting the water drain out of my boots on the other side, with no blisters at all. Taking off boots and drying feet and putting them back on nearly took an hour each time! I like starting to hike at 07h00 ish and hiking till about 9h30 to do a breakfast and swim, then hiking from about 10h30 till 13h00 and stopping till about 15h00 hiking till about 18h30. Totally agree that one needs to not rush the first 2 days. All rubbish should be carried out – nothing should be burnt! I would never carry wood – our pack weight ranged from 15 kg’s to 24 kg’s for the strong young guys in our group. Meals are not a loading operation, they should be an event. I have various hiking menu’s

    • Etienne Davis

      Kuba – which time of the year did you do the hike. I am thinking of doing it the first week in May 2018. You also mentioned that you dont use a water pump or tablets. Do you only use the river water?

  • Sylvie

    Great article, very useful information, superb photographs, makes me want to go straight away! 🙂

    • Silas Mote

      that was a great experience I did it in 2016 and successfully completed it in 4days as opposed to 5days that was because of self decipline and mental fitness and being able to follow the map.

  • Sjoerd

    We will walk the fish river canyon end of May this year. It seems that the water level is as high as last year. How deep is the water if we cross? Do we have to take special measures to keep our stuff dry?
    Thanks for this great article, it helps us in our preparations

  • David Drukarz

    I am a single hiker, and am hoping to do the fish river canyon hike in a few weeks. As groups of under three people are not allowed, what would happen if I simply went down, and did the trek on my own? Are there any rangers checking permits anywhere?

  • Caroline

    Great article!! Really appreciate all the tips. Will be doing the hike in August. Very excited!

  • Andre Gouws ( Gousie)

    We have done it “quiet” a few times and see it as a soul walk. Marissa Greeff; Avelino Ferreira and myself work on an “advise” and tips brochure plus info about plants , animals etc… It s an adventure and not a survival hike 🙂 Enjoy it! Share the Feeling!!!