I’d dreamt of visiting an island paradise, and a trip to the Seychelles in early December meant starting my summer with a bang.
But first there was a slight hiccup, when my flight was delayed by four hours, but I love warm weather, so I forgot all about that once I stepped off the plane and felt Mahé’s tropical humidity. Eagerly anticipating what the island had to offer, I rushed through passport control.
Due to my delayed flight, I arrived on the island at midnight, which made the drive to my first hotel daunting. The darkness and steep, winding roads made it difficult to tell where I was going and what the island looked like. But after arriving at Laïla Resort, a Marriott Group Hotel, welcoming, warm staff wasted no time checking me into my room. When I woke up the following day, the scorching sun gave me a proper island welcome – 28°C at 9 am! I took a moment to soak in my luxurious hotel room, which had an island-like feel. The resort is vibrant and like a village, making it ideal for travellers seeking comfort and a convenient location.
I headed down for breakfast, where I enjoyed the most delicious fresh fruit – I mean, what’s an island getaway if you’re not indulging in fruit as your first meal of the day? Our taxi arrived at 9 am, and our friendly tour guide, Nicholas, explained our plans for the day. We hopped into the taxi, fully sated and ready to explore. (If you don’t enjoy humidity, carry a handheld fan, as you’ll sweat as soon as you leave your hotel.)
As we ventured to our first stop, we saw breathtaking vistas of the azure ocean. There is nothing like seeing your first beach in the Seychelles! Eager to give us the whole experience, Nicholas stopped for us to appreciate the view.
Seychelles (Picture: Shutterstock)
Culture in the capital
We visited the capital city, Victoria – one of the smallest capitals in the world – which provided a glimpse into Seychelles’ vibrant culture.
The Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market is popular among locals and travellers, offering fresh produce and handmade crafts. The locals are welcoming, can spot a traveller from a mile away and will offer them samples of their produce. While most traders sold similar items, there were spices, vibrant fruits and some of the most massive vegetables I had ever seen. The smell of the ocean’s aromas amidst the warm tropical air was pungent. Local fishermen handled their catches, surrounded by sea birds competing for morsels.
Rich History
The 115 islands that make up the archipelago of Seychelles cover 1 400 000 square kilometres of ocean. Many factors, including French colonisation and a varied blend of cultures, have moulded its fascinating past. In pre-European times, the Seychelles were vacant. The French did, however, establish a settlement in the late 1700s, and they left behind a cultural legacy that is still discernible in the Creole language and cuisine. Then, the islands were a British colony until 1976, when they attained independence.
The echoes of colonial history resonate throughout Victoria. Affectionately known in Creole as ‘Lorloz’, its renowned Victoria Clock Tower is at the central point of the capital.
This charming structure is a miniature replica of London’s Big Ben, a tribute to Queen Victoria and a prominent symbol of the country’s past.
Near Lorloz are the Pierre Poivre Statue and the Supreme Court Building, which currently houses the National Museum of History, both bearing witness to the Seychelles’ colonial past.
The French Naturalist Pierre Poivre is historically significant for bringing cinnamon, a spice the Dutch East India Company had traditionally tightly guarded, to the Seychelles. The city centre is set against this historical backdrop and is alive with activity, such as small shops, bakeries, restaurants, and diverse religious structures. The South Indian Hindu Temple is unique despite most of its residents being Catholic. This temple proudly represents the cosmopolitan acceptance that characterises the Seychelles islands, its gentle pastel hues creating a multi-coloured rainbow.
After leaving the market, we journeyed into Mahé’s central mountains. The drive afforded us breathtaking views of tropical forests and centuries-old vegetation. We noticed numerous hiking trails branching off the road that travellers could follow to explore the island. Be extra cautious, as rainfall around this time of year can make the slopes dangerous. As we reached the summit of San Soucis mountain, Mission Lodge, originally known as Venn’s Town, stood amidst ancient trees and ruins. Nicholas gave us time to explore the site, and while strolling through the tropical forest, we saw statues and buildings with placards telling stories of the souls who once roamed there.
To the Tea Factory in the western district, 3 km from Port Glaud. This fully operational tea factory produces most of the tea in Seychelles and is in a beautiful setting, with panoramic views of Mahé’s slopes. While ascending the tea plantation’s terraces, we breathed in refreshing mountain air, and the delightful tea boutique and restaurant provided a relaxing break during our exploration.
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Island Vibes
No trip is complete without tasting the local food, and if this is one of the main reasons for your visit to Seychelles, Creole cuisine will top your list. It combines various local origins, influences, cultures and rich flavours suited to even the most complex palate.
La Grand Trianon Marie-Antoinette Restaurant
Le Grand Trianon Marie-Antoinette Restaurant, the island’s oldest eatery, gave us the best dining experience of our island adventure. With its colourful decor of bird of paradise flowers adorning the dining area and traditional furnishings, this quaint Creole home alluded to its Seychellois roots. I was taken back in time by Ladob, a delicacy of ripe plantains and jackfruit cooked in coconut milk. This restaurant’s best recipes are the sweet and sour tuna steak, the zesty mango salad, the brinjal fritters and the grilled red snapper with yellow curry sauce. My favourite beverage was pulpy, sour passionfruit juice, but their daily juice selection is also excellent.
First-time visitors should order their signature board, whose unique regional specialties include fish curries, parrotfish fritters, fresh salsa, tuna steak served with Creole salsa, and spicy, flavourful chicken curry. Many residents grow chillies in their home gardens, and Restaurant Owner Jessica Fonseka would not allow us to leave the restaurant without savouring the heat.
It is also customary to catch a glimpse of the Giant Aldabra tortoises in the backyard run after your meal. When the restaurant is not too busy, your waitress will help you feed them. Giant Aldabra tortoises are endemic to the Seychelles, and many locals keep them as pets.
Fine Dining on Praslin Island
DIVA is an exclusive fine dining establishment in the Constance Lemuria resort on Praslin Island. General Manager Bruno Le Gac welcomed us. He is deeply passionate about luxury hospitality and exquisite cuisine. After brief introductions, we headed to our table and knew we were in for an exceptional culinary experience. We began with tapas like cheese soufflé with a delicious crunch, crab, and fish tacos made from the region’s speciality fish. But the yellowfin tuna avocado cannelloni dipped in a rich lobster bisque was the highlight. I found the presentation and pairing of hot and cold components intriguing.
The main course featured the chef’s favourite ingredient, confit local red snapper delicately coated in a blood-orange emulsion. The resort takes its wine selection so seriously that 10 sommeliers oversee and curate it. Bruno offered us a tour of their exceptional wine cellar before we returned to our rooms, and what a treat it was to witness the juxtaposition of South African wines alongside renowned Burgundies. Esteemed winemakers in this collection include Adi Badenhorst, Duncan Savage, Chris and Andrea Mullineux and Eben Sadie.
Seaside Sushi
I had been looking forward to making sushi on the beach when visiting Constance Lemuria. Sushi and the ocean are two of my favourite things, so I couldn’t help but have a pinch-me moment when partaking in this mouth-watering activity set against the backdrop of a stunning turquoise beach. Although not traditional Seychellois cuisine, sushi is one of the finest ways to savour the archipelago’s freshly caught delights. Guided by Chef Jordi, I felt like a student at a cooking academy as we engaged in the process. The hotel staff didn’t hold back, offering their best tropical cocktails as we prepared the sushi, which made our experience funnier than it should have been.
Lucy (a foodie, part of our group) and I competed against two guys who were also part of our group to see who could make the best sushi. We won!
Having finished making our sushi rolls, we relished our creations at a table set on the white sand, soaking in the beauty of the tranquil ocean. This we followed with a much-needed dip in the cooling water, which offered us a glorious respite from the day’s heat.
The day slowly turned to night, and we couldn’t help but feel disappointed, as we knew that our last day was coming up.
The last day began with non-stop tropical storms caused by a cyclone that had formed a few kilometres from the island. It was too wet for our planned activities, so we enjoyed a day of leisure and prepared for our flight.
Au revoir, Seychelles!
If you’d asked me before this trip what my ideal island getaway would be, I would have probably said Mauritius or the Maldives, but once you experience the Seychelles, you’re sure to change your mind. Seychelles is a must-visit with many world-class luxury resorts, seafood galore and a pleasant temperature year-round that’s ideal for adventuring. Here, friendly and welcoming locals coexist with unmatched natural beauty.
Stay here
Laïla Resort, a Marriott Group Hotel
A dynamic, modern, village-style hotel, ideal for travellers seeking comfort and a convenient location.
marriott.com
Instagram: lailaseychelles
Constance Ephelia Resort
Imagine sun loungers tucked beneath the shade of exotic trees and cocktail bars adorned with sandy floors.
constancehotels.com
Instagram: constancehotels
Constance Lumeria Resort
A secluded paradise among empty, white-sand beaches and lush flora and fauna. Another incredible luxury resort adorned with vibrant, natural vegetation and golf course slopes.
Club Med Resort
Club Med’s offerings range from beachside pools to kid’s clubs, water aerobics, giant tortoises and dancing at late-night beach parties.
Clubmed.co.za
Instagram: clubmedseychelles
This article was written by Maegan-Leigh Jacobs for Getaway’s April 2024 print edition. Find us on shelves for more!
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