As far as areas of great beauty go, you can’t do much better than the Elgin Valley area, just a hop, skip and jump over the Hottentots Holland Mountains from Cape Town.
The Elgin Valley is one of the more intensively farmed areas of the country and produces nearly two-thirds of the national apple crop. That’s a startling fact for an area so small but less surprising when you enter the area and are greeted by the wonderful weather. Of course, as South Africans we know that we’re unlikely to get a sniff of it, with most of our best fruit exported to Britain. Mutter, mutter, mutter.
Surrounded by mountains and with cool temperatures, an ocean breeze and plentiful winter rainfall, the Elgin basin has a set of conditions for wine growing which are markedly different from Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and other well-known wine-growing regions.
The area’s Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs are particularly well received. The wine farms here may not be as famous, but that doesn’t mean they’re any less impressive.
The story goes that Elgin took its name from a young girl, Elgine Herold, who died from a snake bite near the Palmiet River. Her father named the area Elgin in her memory and the name stuck.
When the railway builders sought a spot of land on which to build a station over the Hottentots Holland Mountains, it was in this area that they settled and the station was given the same name. It was this station that proved to be the primary connection between the people of the valley and the outside world.
Day 1
We’d come to Elgin for one reason: to try the impressive Cape Canopy zipline ‘You know that other place with ziplines,’ our guide asked us. ‘Their longest zipline is about 90 metres. That’s our shortest one.’
After a safety briefing, a drive into the mountains – with complementary “African massage” – and a short walk, we were ready to give it a bash.
We’d gone early to avoid the hottest time of the day but it was still pretty toasty. Maybe it’s a sign of my ageing eyes but I could barely make out the destination of each zipline, so far away they were.
But I got into position and let go, and what followed was pure exhilaration. What a thrill! Our guides ensured we were always clipped in and we zigzagged our way across the gorge 11 times. Or was it 13? I lost count. Some lines were short – barely 70 metres, but some were over 300 m and by the end I was able to try a few moves – going sideways, legs open, no hands, even.
Even my wife, who can be a bit risk-averse, had an absolute ball. All too soon it was over and I found myself wishing there were a few more to try.
021 3000 501
On the drive back we passed the start of the descent to the Suicide Gorge hike, featured in this magazine several months ago. If you’re keen to give that a go, you’ll find details at capenature.co.za/reserves/hottentots-holland-nature-reserve or 028 841 4301/02.
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Once back safely in the carpark, we still had half a day ahead of us and we headed to our next attraction, the Elgin Railway Market.
This was more the wife’s scene, and she was in her element, checking out this and that, deciding where we’d eat and what we’d take home as gifts.
The Elgin Railway Market is a bustling hive of activity, featuring local food and craft vendors, live music is a beautiful setting.
The original building – an old apple warehouse –was built in the 1940s by Italian prisoners of War from WWII. Don’t worry: it has been extensively renovated since then.
You want options for what to eat? You’re covered. Curries, Mediterranean cuisine, Vegan salads, pizzas, ribs and burgers, dim sum, Mexican nachos, fresh juices, tasty biltong, fall-off-the-bone lamb and fresh Thai. There are sweet treats and coffees, too.
The market is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 9 am – 4pm and has a limited selection on Wednesdays and Fridays from 4:30 – 9pm.
The Ceres Rail company operates a Cape Town to Elgin weekend steam train return trip. We missed it but I’ve heard it’s quite the spectacle.
Children (and let’s not kid ourselves, adults too) are spellbound as the train roars in with thunderous whistling, puffing and hooting. Very Harry Potter-esque. Visitors to the market can greet the train on the station platform or view its arrival from the Market’s leisure deck overlooking the railway platform.
Oak Avenue, Elgin, 7180,
(0)21 204 1158, [email protected], elginrailwaymarket.co.za
Day 2
If you’re not keen for an active weekend, look away now. The area is blessed with a plethora of trails and it would be a shame to not make the most of them.
You have options.
Almenkerk Wine Estate has a custom-built hiking trail that makes its way through our vineyards, apple and pear orchards, with seven different activity stations to keep it fun and interesting.
There are some information boards with background info on Almenkerk, the farm, the wine and its people. The trail is 5 km long, but you have the option of making it a bit longer (plus 2 km) if you’re having fun.
The entry fee goes to alien clearing.
Opening times: Tuesday until Saturday 8:30 am – 3 pm.
021 848 9844, [email protected], Almenkerk.co.za
Then there’s the Elgin Valley Trail Network, which features some of the country’s top mountain biking trails. If you stay at Trail’s End, many of these trails are on your doorstep. There are also the Paul Cluver trails which are only open by appointment for in-house guests Of Trail’s End. Bike hire can be arranged. The Grabouw Forest Trails can be enjoyed on foot, too, if you prefer.
If you really are a cycling nerd, you might also want to pop in at the Trail’s End Bicycle Museum, the brainchild of Trail’s End Bike Hotel owner, Pieter Silberbauer. The first of its kind in Africa, the museum showcases the history of the invention of the wheel and pedal-powered transport and features a life-size mock-up of the first known bicycle design, widely believed to have been invented by Leonardi da Vinci in the 1500s.
A tour of the bicycle museum is complimentary for hotel guests.
021 859 5193, [email protected], trailsend.bike
Last but not least, enjoy a trip to Cheverells Farm, where a host of activities are available.
The Farm Shed runs a series of workshops covering topics like seasonal gardening tips, painting courses or floral arranging. Other events and activities include apple-picking mornings during the harvest season from February – April, pop-up markets and gourmet evenings. There’s a Farm Cafe where you can enjoy a meal, and a gift shop, too. 060 861 1044, [email protected], cheverellsfarm.com
Stay here
Set among the apple orchards, Old Mac Daddy offers open spaces, mountain paths, a lakeside beach and plenty of outdoor activities for the whole family (best to call in advance as they may be closed for private functions, though).
Activities include archery, mountain biking, nature walks, kayaking, tractor rides and fishing (on a catch-and-release basis, depending on dam stock level).
021 844 0241, [email protected], oldmacdaddy.co.za
Eat here
Peregrine Farm Stall – an N2 favourite. If you haven’t visited, you’ve missed out.
021 848 9011, [email protected]
The Melting Pot – a flavour-packed, global food experience, serving contemporary small plates made for sharing. 021 859 4111, [email protected]
This article was written by Alan Valkenburg for Getaway’s May 2024 print edition. Find us on shelves for more!
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