The road climbs towards the mountains outside Graaff-Reinet, then winds into the open Karoo, where the next settlement can be a long way off and the landscape seems to stretch on indefinitely. Here, the journey is as much about the places along the way as the distance covered.
One of those places is Nieu-Bethesda, a village of gravel streets beneath the Sneeuberg mountains. Its best-known attraction, the Owl House, is filled with hundreds of concrete sculptures created by Helen Martins, whose unusual home and garden later inspired Athol Fugard’s play The Road to Mecca. It is a curious sight in an otherwise quiet Karoo village, and a good reason to put the brakes on and stay a little longer.
Nieu-Bethesda also features on the route of the Nedbank Gravel Burn, a seven-day gravel cycling race taking place from 25 to 31 October 2026. Covering 750km and 8,500m of climbing, the race starts in Graaff-Reinet and finishes at Shamwari Private Game Reserve, crossing remote Karoo country before reaching the Eastern Cape’s wildlife-rich bushveld.
Supported by Nedbank, the event puts a spotlight on the region’s gravel roads and rural destinations. But you don’t have to be a cyclist to appreciate the route. Historic towns, mountain passes, fossil-rich landscapes and small settlements make this a rewarding part of the country to explore at a slower pace.
Graaff-Reinet: a historic town at the edge of the Karoo
Graaff-Reinet, recently renamed Robert Sobukwe Town after the anti-apartheid leader born there, was established in 1786. It is one of South Africa’s oldest towns, with historic homes, museums and a striking Dutch Reformed Church at its centre.
Give yourself time to walk through the old streets before heading out into the surrounding countryside. The town’s architecture tells part of the story, but the landscape beyond it is just as memorable.
Camdeboo National Park lies on the outskirts of town, with the Valley of Desolation among its best-known attractions. Here, towering dolerite columns rise above the plains, with wide views across the Karoo basin. The rock formations are particularly striking in the softer light of early morning or late afternoon, although the exposed viewpoints can be windy.
For cyclists, Graaff-Reinet is the starting point of the Gravel Burn’s first stage. The 90km route heads towards Conical Peak before a rough descent and a final exposed stretch to Blaauwater. Even if you’re travelling by car, the scenery gives you an idea of the distances and changing terrain that define this part of the Eastern Cape.
Where to stay: The Drostdy Hotel offers a historic setting in the town centre. Victorian Square Guesthouse is another option, while Rietjiesbos Self-Catering suits travellers who prefer their own space and kitchen facilities. Check current rates and availability directly with each property.
Nieu-Bethesda: an unusual village worth the detour
The Gravel Burn’s second stage is a 111km loop that passes through the Sneeuberg Nature Reserve, circles Compassberg and takes riders through Nieu-Bethesda. For visitors travelling independently, the village makes a worthwhile detour from Graaff-Reinet.
The Owl House is the main attraction. Helen Martins spent years transforming her home and garden into an extraordinary collection of sculptures, including owls, camels and figures looking towards the sky. Coloured glass catches the light, giving parts of the garden an almost otherworldly appearance. The result is difficult to mistake for anything else in the Karoo.
The Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre offers another reason to stay. The surrounding region is known for its fossils of ancient reptiles and mammal-like creatures that lived millions of years before the dinosaurs. It is a reminder that this apparently stark landscape holds a remarkable record of life on Earth.
Allow time to explore the village on foot, browse its small galleries and find somewhere to eat. Nieu-Bethesda is not a place to rush through between larger destinations; its appeal lies partly in its quiet streets and the chance to spend an unhurried afternoon.
A little planning is important. The village has no petrol station or ATM, so arrive with a full tank and some cash. Most restaurants accept cards, but it is wise to check opening times and book a table in advance. Road access can change, so check the local tourism website for the latest directions and closures before setting off.
Where to stay: The Bethesda Guesthouse has rooms and an on-site restaurant. Riad Maroc offers self-catering accommodation. The Nieu-Bethesda tourism website lists additional guesthouses, cottages and farm stays.
Across the Karoo: mountain passes and long gravel roads
The Gravel Burn’s middle stages show just how varied the terrain can be. The third stage, at 137km, is the longest of the race. It includes Wapadsberg Pass, long rolling stretches of tar and riverside farmland before the summit finish on Swaershoek Pass. The scenery changes as riders climb, with the dry Karoo giving way to greener high-altitude grassland.
The following day is shorter, with a 61km loop around the Klein-Visrivier valley. Then comes a 128km stage towards Gwanishi, heading south and east across remote semi-desert on open gravel roads and rough farm tracks.
There is a brief glimpse of the Indian Ocean along the wider race journey before the route turns towards its final destination. By the time riders leave the Karoo plains behind, the vegetation and terrain begin to change, signalling the approach to the Eastern Cape’s bushveld.
These are not just long distances on a map. The route is designed around the realities of gravel racing, with demanding surfaces, climbing and exposed stretches where wind can make the ride harder. It also crosses private land, so the event route should not be treated as a public cycling trail. Anyone planning to ride independently should use public roads, check access and road conditions, and choose distances suited to their experience.
For visitors travelling by car, the same principle applies: there is no need to recreate the entire race. Choose a few destinations, allow time for the drive and leave room for stops that catch your eye.
Cradock and Mountain Zebra National Park
If you have an extra day, consider a detour to Cradock, also known as Nxuba. Established as a frontier post in 1814, the town sits beside the Great Fish River and has a distinctive historic centre. Its Dutch Reformed Church, built in the 19th century, was modelled on St Martin-in-the-Fields in London.
Cradock is also associated with writer and social reformer Olive Schreiner, who lived in the area and is buried nearby. A short drive beyond town brings you to Mountain Zebra National Park, where mountain scenery provides the setting for wildlife viewing. The park was established to help protect the endangered Cape mountain zebra, and visitors may also see other wildlife on a game drive.
This is best treated as an optional detour rather than a stop to squeeze into an already packed itinerary. Check driving times and park access before you go, and allow enough time to enjoy the area.
Finish in Big Five country at Shamwari
After the open Karoo plains, the landscape around Shamwari Private Game Reserve feels like a different chapter of the journey. Grassland, thicket and river valleys provide habitat for wildlife, including the Big Five. The reserve lies inland from Gqeberha, near Paterson, and offers guided safari experiences for visitors staying at its lodges.
The Gravel Burn’s sixth stage covers 76km before a separate 33km liaison section takes riders towards Shamwari. The final stage is a 94km loop through Founder’s Gate and over Assegaai, past Alicedale and back to the reserve. It is a striking finish to a route that begins in the semi-desert and ends in wildlife country.
For travellers, Shamwari offers the option of swapping dusty roads for a game drive and a night in the bush. Long Lee Manor has an elegant, heritage-inspired setting, while Sindile is a tented lodge overlooking the Bushman’s River and surrounding landscape. Bayethe offers another tented safari experience.
A stay at a private game reserve is a more substantial part of the travel budget, so compare packages and confirm what is included. Meals, game drives and other activities can vary by lodge and booking. It is also worth checking the location of your chosen lodge within the reserve and the transfer arrangements before confirming a stay.
Know before you go
Getting there: Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) is a practical arrival point for this route. The drive to Graaff-Reinet takes approximately three to three-and-a-half hours, while Shamwari is around an hour from the airport. If you are travelling independently, arrange a rental car or other transport that suits your itinerary. Gravel Burn airport shuttles are for registered participants and should not be assumed to be available to other visitors.
When to travel: The race takes place in late October, when days in the Karoo can be hot and exposed areas offer little shade. Temperatures can drop after sunset, so pack layers as well as sun protection. Check the forecast before leaving, particularly if you plan to cycle or spend time on remote roads.
Cycling and bike hire: If you want to ride part of the region, arrange your bike in advance and confirm availability, sizing, servicing and collection details directly with a hire provider. Ask accommodation hosts about secure bike storage. Do not assume that bike hire, vehicle support or transfers will be available in small villages.
Driving and supplies: Fill up in larger towns before heading into remote areas. Carry drinking water and basic supplies, download maps for offline use and let someone know your plans if you are cycling away from busier roads. Mobile reception can be inconsistent in rural areas.
Accommodation: Book ahead, particularly during school holidays and major events. The Gravel Burn’s Blaauwater, Merino and Gwanishi camps are part of the race setup, not ordinary accommodation options for independent travellers. Book established guesthouses, hotels or lodges in the towns and reserves instead.
A three-night itinerary
Three nights will not cover the full Gravel Burn route, and that is no reason to try to cram it all in. A shorter trip works best if you choose a few places and give yourself time to enjoy them.
- Night one: Graaff-Reinet. Explore the historic centre and, if time allows, visit the Valley of Desolation in Camdeboo National Park. Stay overnight in town.
- Night two: Nieu-Bethesda. Drive to the village and visit the Owl House and Kitching Fossil Exploration Centre. Leave time to wander the streets and arrange dinner before arriving. Stay in a local guesthouse or self-catering cottage.
- Night three: Shamwari. Travel towards the reserve, allowing time for a stop en route if you wish. Book a lodge package in advance and check the details of included game drives and meals.
If Cradock and Mountain Zebra National Park are priorities, extend the trip or save them for another visit rather than trying to fit everything into three nights.
The Gravel Burn covers 750km, but a good Eastern Cape getaway does not need a race number or a week in the saddle. Start with Graaff-Reinet’s historic streets, take the detour to Nieu-Bethesda and make time for the places between the major stops. The reward is a journey through a part of South Africa where the landscape changes dramatically, and where an unexpected village or a quiet stretch of road can become the highlight.
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