Often, we find ourselves travelling north from Cape Town into the alien folds of the Cederberg, wrapped up in dry heat, long days and contented disconnect. Less frequently, but with equal gratitude, we make our way into the Overberg, where the green, fresh novelty of being flanked by ocean and mountain never wears off.
Mosaic Lagoon Lodge is on the edge of the Kleinrivier Lagoon. Surrounded by the Kleinrivier Mountains, and the Atlantic Ocean, which faces Walker Bay, this eco-conscious retreat offers a modern rarity: stillness.
My partner and I were fortunate to spend two days indulging in this sanctuary of birdsong and golden evenings, as summer slowly began to wind down.
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The lodge adds another layer of natural wonder to waves and rocks: the lagoon. But before arriving at the peaceful waters near the Mosaic, we cut a scenic scar through the Elgin Valley, trading the tarred N2 for the red–dirt Highlands Road. Driving from Cape Town, we took the first right after Peregrine Farm Stall onto Viljoenshoop Road, then drove about a kilometre before turning left onto Highlands Road.
It’s one of my favourite passes – recommended by a dear friend who said that every year, on the way to Hermanus, his family would take a slow drive down the road, stopping along the way to cut down their Christmas tree for the year. Whether you’re a tourist or a Cape Town local, you won’t be disappointed taking the 10 km route, bordered by vineyards and coniferous vegetation and, at the close of summer, looked down on by a belting blue sky.
You don’t necessarily need a 4×4 or a large vehicle to take this road, but it helps. A vehicle with some clearance is preferable for Highlands’ potted gravel; even better is one with a selectable four-wheel-drive or all-wheel-drive system.
For nearly half a year, I’d taken custodianship of the Ford Ranger Wildtrak X as a long-term test vehicle, and while it spent a lot of time ferrying us around town, we took every chance we had to let it stretch its legs for adventure. One of my favourite Widltrak X functions is the 4A on-demand, all-wheel-drive setting, which detects slippage and distributes power to the four wheels accordingly. You can drive it on both tar and gravel (unlike other four-wheel high-range drive modes). It’s useful when driving on stretches that alternate between tar and gravel – as do many trips into the Western Cape’s surrounds. It proved useful again as we eventually turned off the R43 and idled through Stanford’s quiet streets before setting off on the final gravel stretch towards the lagoon, the horizon framed by brilliant green fynbos, the white dirt road guiding us towards the retreat.
When we arrived, we received a peaceful itinerary that spoke to one of the great pleasures of our two days at Mosaic: the option to immerse ourselves in the beautiful natural surroundings, with an absolute lack of pressure even to leave the room, except for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
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The all-inclusive package covers meals and a selection of drinks, and Vitalas, the charming private guide at Mosaic, helps plan your activity itinerary.
Private activities include a guided nature walk in the early morning, exploring the waters of the lagoon by canoe, or taking a 4×4 beach excursion to Walker Bay, where white dunes zigzag the shores of the Atlantic, contrasting the deep green sea of fynbos in the reserve. From June to November, you may spot southern right whales breaching nearby. Hermanus and Walker Bay are recognised as two of the best land-based whale–watching destinations in the world. The Lady Stanford River Cruise offers a trip along the Klein River toward the Hermanus Lagoon, and you can hike to the Klipgat Caves, the site of some of South Africa’s first Middle Stone Age archaeological excavations. Birdlife remains a massive attraction in the area; over 350 species have been spotted in Hermanus and the surrounding Overberg, with frequent sightings of kingfishers, flamingos and African fish eagles.
We skipped the nature walk in favour of meandering, map in hand, through the lush surroundings. Unfortunately, we had to rule out kayaking thanks to uncharacteristic summer rain. It didn’t matter, because so much of Mosaic’s appeal lies in its invitation to relax. To wake up late, and have coffee in bed as the rain hit the deck in irregular droplets from the dense canopy of evergreen foliage, was as rewarding as any early morning walk.
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You can attribute much of the area’s serenity, beyond awe-inspiring nature, to Mosaic’s architecture, which offers privacy and intimacy. There are five luxury safari-style suites at the lodge – each unique in design and allure. At any given time, you don’t see many other people, and even when dining at the same time, there’s never more than four other tables worth of guests, quietly chattering over a glass of the house wine and a piece of meat cooked to perfection by Head Chef Lucky.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served between specific times each day, and the lagoon is a different scene at each mealtime. At breakfast, the morning sun bounced hopefully off the water to usher in a new day, lunchtime saw the shores abuzz with the quiet daytime activities of hidden wildlife and birds, and we enjoyed dinner as the sky glowed amber on the horizon line, colouring the Kleinrivier Mountains and lagoon a kaleidoscope of orange as the mozzies hummed to life to go to war with our insect repellent.
We stayed in a Luxury Safari-style Suite with a Forest View. Tucked away in a beautiful tangle of milkwood trees, the thatch-roofed suite blends organic architecture with luxurious modern finishes. Taking centre stage is a king-size bed draped in a mosquito net and covered in lush linen. Striking wooden fittings frame the doors and windows, and the bathroom, built from stone and decorated with warm lights and woven baskets, leads to a private outdoor shower. Beyond the deck, beneath the branches, is a wood-fired hot tub.
A few kilometres from the main lodge lies the Milkwood Spa. After our late–morning stroll, we took the short drive to the spa for a full-body massage. An hour later, smiley and droopy-eyed, we emerged to the sun fighting its way through the day’s cloud cover. It’d stopped drizzling, leaving the fresh smell of water on leaves, and an opportunity to take an afternoon drive to the white dunes, and enjoy an evening drink in the company of the birds, the fynbos and the rolling waves of Walker Bay.
You can’t put a price on peace, and what Mosaic gets right is allowing you the time and space to unwind entirely and privately. At the water’s edge, hugged by forest and fynbos, you can choose to do everything or nothing at all, and luxuriate in either option.
Mosaic Lagoon Lodge
On the Hermanus Lagoon, Wortelgat Road, Stanford
Contact: [email protected] / 076 313 2814
Web: mosaicsouthafrica.co.za
Insta: mosaicsoafrica
IMAGES: Oliver Keohane
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