There are few cities where the journey itself becomes part of the destination. In Cape Town, one of the most rewarding ways to explore the peninsula doesn’t require a hired car or a carefully planned road trip.
Image by Alicia Christin Gerald / Unsplash
Instead, it begins with the familiar rumble of a train pulling out of Cape Town Station. The Southern Line has carried commuters for generations, but for travellers it offers something entirely different. As the city gives way to leafy suburbs, surf towns and working harbours, the route unfolds as a moving postcard of everyday life in the Mother City. By the time the train hugs the edge of False Bay, with waves breaking just metres from the tracks, it’s easy to forget you’re on public transport at all.
Stretching from Cape Town to Simon’s Town, the journey takes around 90 minutes, but it’s worth allowing an entire day. Part of its charm lies in stepping off whenever something catches your eye, lingering a little longer than planned and catching the next train when you’re ready to continue.
Leaving the city behind
The journey begins beneath the bustling platforms of Cape Town Station, where commuters, students and visitors all share the same departure boards. As the train eases out of the city centre, Table Mountain lingers in the background while the skyline gradually gives way to neighbourhoods that reveal a different side of Cape Town.
The first stretch passes through Woodstock and Observatory, two suburbs that have long been synonymous with creativity and culture. Converted warehouses house independent cafés, art studios and design spaces, while colourful murals brighten otherwise ordinary streets. They may not feature on every tourist itinerary, but they offer an authentic glimpse into the city’s creative pulse.
For those with time to spare, either suburb makes a worthwhile stop for breakfast, good coffee or an unhurried stroll before continuing south.
When the sea comes into view
The character of the journey begins to change after the southern suburbs. Almost without warning, the urban landscape gives way to open water as False Bay appears alongside the railway. It’s a moment that catches first-time passengers by surprise and one that regular commuters rarely tire of.
Between Muizenberg and Simon’s Town, the railway traces the shoreline so closely that passengers are treated to uninterrupted views across the bay. On one side, mountains rise sharply from the coastline. On the other, the ocean stretches towards the horizon, changing colour with the shifting light.
Travelling during the early morning or late afternoon rewards photographers with softer light, while winter and spring often bring the added possibility of spotting southern right whales offshore. It is widely regarded as one of South Africa’s most scenic railway journeys, and for good reason.
Surf culture, seaside charm and harbour life
The beauty of travelling this route lies in the freedom to explore beyond the station platforms. Muizenberg is often the first stop for visitors. Its colourful Victorian beach huts have become one of Cape Town’s most photographed landmarks, while the beach itself remains one of the country’s best places to learn to surf. The relaxed promenade invites slow walks, coffee stops and long lunches overlooking the water.
Just a few minutes further along the line, Kalk Bay offers an entirely different atmosphere. The historic fishing village is easy to explore on foot. Fishing boats continue to bring in the day’s catch, Cape fur seals gather around the harbour, and independent bookshops, antique stores and cafés line the main road. It’s the kind of place where an hour can easily turn into an afternoon.
Nearby Dalebrook Tidal Pool offers one of the peninsula’s most scenic places for a swim, while the cafés provide the perfect excuse to slow the pace before boarding the next train.
Further south, Fish Hoek offers a quieter stretch of coastline. Families gather on the broad sandy beach, walkers make their way along the promenade and the calm waters create a noticeably gentler atmosphere than the busier beaches closer to the city. Rather than rushing between destinations, the Southern Line encourages travellers to experience each stop as locals do, one neighbourhood at a time.
Arriving in Simon’s Town
The final destination feels worlds away from the city where the journey began. Simon’s Town, one of South Africa’s oldest towns, has long been associated with the South African Navy, but there’s far more to discover beyond its maritime history. Historic Victorian buildings line the streets, cafés spill onto pavements and the harbour provides a constant backdrop of yachts, fishing boats and visiting vessels.
The town is best explored slowly. Wander through its independent shops, enjoy fresh seafood overlooking the water or visit one of the museums that tell the story of Simon’s Town’s naval heritage.
Just a short walk or taxi ride from the station lies Boulders Beach, home to one of the world’s only mainland colonies of endangered African penguins. Elevated boardwalks allow visitors to observe the birds without disturbing them, making it one of the Cape Peninsula’s most memorable wildlife experiences.
It’s an ideal place to spend the afternoon before catching a later train back to Cape Town.
Planning your rail adventure
For the best experience, choose a window seat on the left-hand side when travelling south, where the coastal views are at their finest. Travelling during daylight hours is recommended, and checking the latest Metrorail schedules before departing is essential, as services may change due to ongoing infrastructure upgrades. Whether you choose to linger in Kalk Bay, catch a wave in Muizenberg or head straight for Simon’s Town, flexibility is part of the experience.
A reminder that slower travel still has its place
In a city often defined by mountain passes and coastal drives, travelling by train offers a refreshing change of perspective. The Southern Line invites you to look beyond the major attractions and discover the rhythm of Cape Town through its neighbourhoods, beaches and seaside communities.
It isn’t about reaching Simon’s Town as quickly as possible. It’s about watching the city unfold through the carriage window, hopping off when curiosity calls and rediscovering the simple pleasure of travelling without rushing. Sometimes the best way to experience Cape Town isn’t from behind the wheel at all. It’s on the rails that have quietly connected the city for more than a century.
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