Regional travel has found its moment, and this route is exactly the kind of trip people are looking for, writes Miriam Kimvangu.
Image used for illustrative purposes/Central Karoo/redcharlie/Unsplash
It is manageable, rich in character and most importantly, it offers a clear starting point for anyone wanting to explore the Karoo without feeling lost in its vastness.
A night under Sutherland’s stars
Before you even think about turning the ignition, give Sutherland the time it deserves. This is one of the coldest towns in South Africa, but also one of the most rewarding.
Just outside town, the South African Astronomical Observatory rises from the veld like something out of a science fiction film. Home to the SALTA telescope, it anchors South Africa’s place in global astronomy. A guided visit gives context, but it is the night sky that leaves the real impression. Even informal stargazing sessions feel profound here. Back in town, dinner is hearty and unfussy. Think lamb, fresh bread, and something warm to drink. The Karoo does not do pretence, and that is part of its appeal.
Things to do:
- Book guided observatory tours in advance
- Participate in organised stargazing sessions
- Stay overnight to fully experience night-sky visibility
Into the wide: Verlatekloof Pass
The next morning, the road north pulls you out of town and almost immediately into the drama of Verlatekloof Pass. The descent is slow and winding, with rock faces rising and falling around you in shades of rust and ochre.
It is worth stopping often. Not for any single landmark, but for the feeling of the place. This is where the landscape opens up and the scale of the Karoo becomes tangible. Light shifts quickly here, so early starts or late afternoon drives are ideal.
On the edge of the Tankwa
At the base of the pass, the terrain flattens into the fringes of the Tankwa Karoo National Park. You are not fully inside the park, but close enough to sense its stark beauty. If you have time and the right vehicle, a detour is worth the effort. The roads can be rough, but the reward is solitude. A stop at the famously eccentric Tankwa Padstal adds a dose of humour to the journey, with its collection of handmade signs and unexpected snacks.
This is a good place to pause, take stock, and lean into the stillness. There is very little here in the conventional sense, and that is exactly the point.
Middelpos: the halfway pause
Further along, Middelpos appears almost without warning. It is small, quiet, and easy to underestimate, but it is also one of the most memorable stops on the route.
The Middelpos Hotel is a key feature, offering:
- Traditional Karoo cuisine, often lamb-based
- A social hub for both locals and travellers
- Insight into rural hospitality practices
Detours that tell deeper stories
From here, the road offers choices. Continue directly toward Calvinia, or take a slight detour to Loeriesfontein. If you do, you will find the Fred Turner Windpump Museum, a surprisingly compelling collection that tells the story of wind, water, and survival in this dry landscape.
Nearby, the Transport Museum adds another layer of nostalgia, with vintage vehicles that feel perfectly at home in this timeless setting. There is also the option to veer toward Brandvlei, where salt pans and wide horizons stretch even further. It is less about attractions and more about atmosphere.
Arrival in Calvinia
Eventually, the road draws you into Calvinia, a town that feels both grounded and quietly vibrant. Compared to the sparse stretches behind you, it almost feels bustling. Start at the Calvinia Museum, housed in a historic building that offers insight into the region’s layered past. Then seek out the Postbox Tree, a quirky but iconic feature that speaks to the town’s character. If you are visiting in late winter or early spring, the surrounding Hantam region transforms with wildflowers, adding unexpected colour to the otherwise muted palette.
Things to see:
- Calvinia Museum
- The Postbox Tree
Practical planning considerations
Fuel and supplies
Fuel stations are limited. Travellers should refuel in Sutherland and not rely on availability en route.
Connectivity
Mobile signal is inconsistent. Offline maps and pre-downloaded information are essential.
Climate preparation
The Karoo experiences significant temperature variation between day and night. Layered clothing is recommended year-round.
Timing
Allow at least two to three days to complete the route comfortably. This ensures time for stops, detours, and overnight stays.
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