The Gifberg loom to the east of the N7 as you drive north from Klawer to Vanrhynsdorp, and are topped by a hard band of rock that turns orange as the sun sinks towards the horizon. On the map, I spotted two passes through them that I just had to drive.
Needing a base to overnight, I headed out from Vanrhynsdorp past the succulent nursery on the Urionskraalpad for about half an hour to Waterval Resort to overnight. This is a secluded kloof dominated by a waterfall remarkable not just for its height (380 metres), but that such a sight should exist in this arid corner of southern Namaqualand. A silvery veil of water falls in three dizzy drops to a deep, sandy-bottomed pool surrounded by thick vegetation. Brides who get married here love having their wedding photos taken with this part of the Troe-Troe River as a backdrop.
Waterval Resort owner Johan Smith says the waterfall dries up at the height of summer, but started flowing again after rain in May this year. Many people come just to walk the path up the kloof and enjoy the spectacle; day visitors drop R10 into a slot in an old milk can at the entrance.
There’s a four-hour hike to the plateau at the top of the cliffs and if you’re lucky, you could see Verreauxs’ eagles. Afterwards, plunge into one of the clear river pools and enjoy the soothing sound of running water.
Flowers making an appearance for spring here include small groups of delicately coloured lachenalia and gorteria, with their mock beetle patterns to entice pollinators. I spotted a fly with huge green eyes busy on a yellow daisy.
Guests wanting to stay longer to enjoy the natural beauty of this little oasis can park on grassed campsites beside the river and use fairly Spartan ablutions attached to a lapa.
Ten self-catering stone cottages are rough-and-ready, boer-maak-“˜n-plan affairs and are very basically equipped: mini fridges, kettle and two-plate stoves. However, at R250 a night for a cottage which sleeps four, this is an affordable holiday option for families; the bigger units cost R350 a night. Bring your own bedding, towels, soap and wood, plus pots if you don’t like cooking in aluminium.
Contact Waterval Resort at 027-219-1005, email [email protected], www.watervalresort.co.za
