What do a chameleon rescuer, a barefoot winemaker and a mayor-restaurateur have in common? Swellendam, that’s what! South Africa’s fifth-oldest town settled in the historical heart of the Overberg has more to offer than you might think.
By Allison Foat
With a winning disposition at the foot of the Langeberg, it forms part of Greater Swellendam that incorporates Suurbraak, Barrydale, Buffeljagsrivier and Malgas. All that plus the fact that it’s a portal to the epic Route 62 adds to the lure, making Swellendam an excellent base from which to explore further. At 220 km from Cape Town, this is an easy road trip that delivers at every turn.
Monumental heritage
Swellendam is a historical treasure trove, flush with well-preserved landmarks and heritage sites. Towering grandly above the many legacy buildings is the dominant Dutch Reformed Church, an eclectic example of Gothic, Dutch, Baroque and Eastern architectural styles that was officially opened in 1911.
This is believed to be the most photographed church in South Africa.
That aside, there is a profusion of other interesting properties to see, many of which have been reimagined as quaint shops, art galleries and eateries. The oldest building around is the Drostdy on Swellengrebel Street, a fascinating complex that comprises the Museum, the Gaol, Ambagswerf, Mayville house and Mayville Garden.
Eating and drinking
After exploring homesteads and holy places, take time out at one of the many excellent restaurants on the heritage strip. If you’re after panache on a plate, book a table at Field and Fork, located inside a section of the Drostdy Museum and owned by Swellendam’s Mayor, Francois du Rand. The Republic across the way is a laid-back spot for people-watching over pub grub and local craft beer and gin.
Get a taste of Swellenbrew!
Further along the drag is Grace + Merci where the menu is driven by freshness and innovation. It’s a great place to start the day with a flat white.
Grace + Merci is also a brilliant remote working space.
Owner Bev Missing, formerly of Rain fame, has created a fabulously styled emporium that entices visitors with everything from gateaux to gifts.
Nature walks and national parks
The Langeberg foothills beckon with numerous walking, running and horse trails. Inside the Marloth Nature Reserve are graded bike routes and the option for two to seven-day hikes, with rustic rest huts for overnighters.
Exploring Marloth Nature Reserve.
The Wamakersbos trail is well suited to day hikers of all ages while for the more experienced, the Swellendam Hiking Trail is the business, hailed as one of South Africa’s top ten hikes.
The Langeberg is calling.
Those preferring a gentler ramble with a guide alongside can book a traipse with Jon Pimm who loves nothing more than to extol the beauty of creation with fellow outdoor enthusiasts. Time spent in this glorious sanctuary, which also happens to also be part of the Cape Floristic Region, is a tonic.
Contact Jon Pimm: [email protected]
Gardens and farms
Gardening is a national pastime in Swellendam, to the extent that a garden expo is held annually to showcase the work of the green-fingered wizards in the dorp. It’s an event that attracts visitors from far and wide who flock to the town for a floral fix and to support the worthy cause – the Swellendam SPCA. Find them at 52 Voortrek Street.
One of the gardens that are open to view throughout the year is October’s Haven across the Rothman Street drift, created by Rina and John October.
Lovely October’s Haven.
With limited resources but loads of gees, the couple has prettified a once-barren plot with succulents and perennials and added a riverside meander and picnic area as well. For something the kids will enjoy, drive to Wildebraam Farm in the nearby Hermitage Valley for berry-picking (Nov-Jan) or to shop their range of jams, syrups, chutneys and liqueurs.
Wine away
The Overberg is wine country, and with numerous fine labels emerging from the region, oenophiles will be in tippling heaven. One of the front runners on the sustainability front is Olivedale Private Vineyards where barefoot winemaker and strategist Carl van Wijck nurtures the symbiotic connection between man and nature to produce a superior product, the natural way.
Olivedale’s Carl van Wijck.
Carl hosts wine tastings himself (by appointment), an outstanding experience in a part of the cellar furnished like a vintage man cave.
Sijnn Wines in Malgas, about 30 minutes from Swellendam, is an unassuming estate in the middle of nowhere, accessed by a dirt road and surrounded by a renosterveld conservation area.
The view from Sijnn Wines.
Owned by David Trafford with the talented Charla Bosman at the winemaking helm, Sijnn subscribes to natural farming methods and natural winemaking. Fun fact – a motorised pontoon is in operation to ferry cars across the Breede River (no cost), which conveniently cancels out a 90km detour.
Wine tastings: www.olivedalevineyards.com (by appointment) and www.sijnn.co.za (Saturdays)
Chameleons
It’s worth noting that Knysna dwarf chameleons, endemic to South Africa, are abundant in Swellendam.
The Knysna dwarf chameleon is listed as Endangered by the IUCN.
Those that wander from their forest habitats though can end up in unsafe urban situations where they succumb to predators or have run-ins with cars, people and hedge clippers. Fortunately, Swellendam is home to a chameleon hero, Carmen Stuart, who taps into veteran chameleon protector Aldo Kleyn for advice and who has made it her mission, with the help of a local vet, to treat, rehabilitate and release the tiny reptiles back into the wild.
Stay
While accommodation options abound, it’s always a bonus to be able to find a B&B where you can get to know a ‘Swellendammer’. At Margie’s Place, proprietor Margie Walker offers two en-suite bedrooms complete with a shared kitchenette, a private entrance and access to her pretty garden, where a continental breakfast comes with views across the Langeberg peaks.
The house is a stone’s throw from the bustle of town and offers easy access to the Marloth Reserve too. Margie is the epitome of gracious hospitality and is always ready to assist with itinerary ideas.
Margie’s Place: Email [email protected]
Pictures: Allison Foat
Follow Allison Foat on Instagram: @allisonfoat
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