Ray Chaplin solo walk from Cape Town to Beit Bridge

Posted on 6 January 2010

After a windy night at Calabash and battling to get camp broken down as a result, I got away slightly later than hoped… but did manage to get in a proper breakfast (oats & long life milk… and some fruit juice, in case you’re wondering) before departing. Knowing Ceres wasn’t exactly far, I decided to push hard for the first stint and get to the start of Michells Pass before having a break.

With gorgeous vineyards and orchards lining the road, I had to keep reminding myself that there was no room for error by either myself or motorists. They are narrow, high-speed roads and one wrong move would result in a flattened Tootsie. Fortunately we managed to avoid but about 20min from the break point though I was ready to break, and it appears pushing for more than 2hrs in a single session is more than my body wants to handle this early into the journey. Maybe as I get fitter it’ll be prepared to push through. Either way, arriving at The Mill & Oaks was a blessing and after a cold drink I hopped into their swimming pool.

Tiri, who works there, asked about my journey and his face lit up when I told him where I was going. “Sho! Zimbabwe is my country” was his initital response

Yip, while reserved for guests staying in the B&B section, I negotiated well and enjoyed cooling the body from the outside.

As much as I considered staying in the pool, I knew time was marching and I hit the black stuff once more. But a *unc**e got in my way and slowed progress somewhat, having to stop to pump. But, it gave me a chance to take more pics of the area – and it is BEAUTIFUL!

About half up the pass I moved across to the left hand side and popped in at the Tolhuis. I remembered it from two years back, but it now has new owners and is looking great!! I met a couple outside in the parking area, and they were on holiday driving a 1948 Bentley. Bought about six months back, it has only recently been restored to a driveable condition… and this was the first road trip.

I enjoyed my first Ceres juice of the journey after chatting with Karien, the owner, who gave me a Tolhuis mug and a small packet of dried fruit. How awesome? I knocked the last stretch quickly, but by now my tyre was in desperate need of TLC. Just as well Cathy from Outward Ventures was in the area to spot the problem and alert me to it, as I was jamming to old techno tunes from the early 90’s…

First stop in town was the tourism office, and they kindly discussed my accommodation requirements with the owner of Dennebos, who agreed to let me camp for free.

I headed up the road to a VERY busy campsite and soon ran into my friends in the Bentley. Sadly Rob was suffering from the heat, but fortunately I’ve spent a little time in the heat and am prepped for it – so passed on some Rehidrat and Tang Plus and he was feeling better already. We chatted for ages but, as they were needing to get driving and I was longing for the pool, we parted ways and I headed for the pool! A huge pool, thankfully, as there were plenty people here today!

I’ve been approached by countless neighbours about what the ‘cart’ is for and some have even asked where the rest of my camp equipment is (one kid wanted to know why my tent was so small and if I’d lost the rest of it), but the Van Tonders from Robertson take the prize – they invited me to join their braai and eat with them.

So, having chowed almost an entire bag of pasta earlier, I ate again and we sat chatting for ages – which is probably why I’m falling asleep while typing this!

POA from here: shops early in the morning when they open, then get moving towards Sutherland. Simple?




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