If you have never experienced a 4×4 trip, this is the one to add to your bucket list.
Hannelie (my rookie driver) and I spent 4 days in our Getaway Land Rover on the Cederberg Ladies 4×4 trip. For me, it was a case of “˜City girl goes large in Namaqualand National Park‘ – forcing me to forget my laptop, hairdryer and stilettos; it was liberating – but not quite as liberating as the “˜veltie’ (I learned), as there were no ablutions on this trip.
We were met by our lively team leader Rene, at Kardoesie, an intriguing little restaurant in the Cederberg. Whilst we waited for the stragglers, we were captivated by the beautiful view, and wondered about the dusty road that stretched ahead.
Introductions aside, we set off towards the mouth of Groen Rivier. Two ladies experienced some major trouble with a burned-out “˜starter motor’ near Bitterfontein, but it wasn’t long before they re-joined us. There was an instant ease among the group of 20 ladies, a completely “˜mixed’ group, without inhibitions.
Coenie, the wise leader of our 10-vehicle convoy, gave us instructions via our “˜radio’ and told us about the history and flora in the area as we drove off-road. It was humid and arid, the tapestry of flowers had faded and only a few yellow blooms from the season’s celebrities remained.
There was a special treat waiting for us when we stopped outside Piet and Mariane’s house (the resident rangers). As I peered into the little brown wine box, two beautiful brown eyes blinked long lashes out at me. It was a baby steenbokkie. Mariane had been hand rearing this little bokkie on goats milk. She found the mother trapped in a fence, almost dead, and managed to save the baby by performing a caesarian section. It was a precious, once in a lifetime moment.
The light house at Island Point led us to our campsite. I’d never pitched a tent before. The gusty wind presented a slight challenge, but with a little help, our neat little camp was satisfying, once set up alongside the dunes.
The first night was spent with “˜team entertainment’ around the orange glow of the communal camp fire, whilst we indulged in a seafood potjie. It was a misty but beautiful night. We set up camp in front of a rusty caravan. There were no stars to light up the sky and I could not help but wonder who the dodgy caravan belonged to, or what was inside? I’d heard there were diamond smugglers nearby “¦
Day 2 & 3 proved to be more challenging. My “˜rookie’ got to show off her driving skills and faced the obstacles with energetic determination. I was given the nickname “˜huppelkind’, owing to the little “˜hop’ I take before I run! I became quite fond of my endearing nickname.
During those two days, we drove through some of the most rugged parts of the West Coast, past the diamond divers (I wondered again about that caravan!) and saw some of the most diverse succulent plants in the world, their swollen leaves lying close to the ground. The Speckled Padloper, the smallest tortoise in the world was also spotted. Sheep grazed along the tracks and wild ostriches tried to chase us, running at about 40km per hour! The sea danced magically along the shore while the reflections of the sun caught the playfulness of the dolphins and the colony of seals lazing on the rocks down below.
We stopped at the Spoeg Rivier caves. This magnificent rock formation echoed the sounds of the Khoi people who used to occupy them. Archeological evidence shows that they contain the earliest evidence of sheep in South Africa. We drove past the Policemen’s Helmet and stopped for lunch where I braved the waves; the Atlantic was cold as ice; I was mad! We looked out for the endangered black oyster catchers, soaring above the coast line.
One thing that struck us was the cuisine. Menu’s included an assortment of seasoned meat, butternut wrapped in foil, and a fabulous spinach, bacon and cheese dish. A real feast. We savoured the aromas and warmth of the crackling bonfire those nights.
I also learned something about the technicalities of 4×4’ing, but Hannelie became an expert and won the well deserved “˜best rookie’ prize at the final nights prize giving. I got heavily penalized – and had to gulp down a tot of spicy “˜Mampoer’ “¦ for having my cell phone buzz during the initial brief “¦ Ooops!
We spent the final night at Paradise Beach in Gert Du Toit se baai, but before this the girls swam at the aesthetic Matessa-se-Bad. It was along this route that we witnessed the most phenomenal rock formations; dolphin rock stood out prominently among the jagged, sloping slats which jutted out towards the sea.
We sat out late on the dunes sipping our sundowners, under the light of the moon and listened to the waves breaking onto the glistening shore that was speckled with blue bottles in the dark. We told stories around the campfire, learning more about our newfound friends and the lives they lead.
As our Landy headed out of this paradise, towards Lutzville I thought about all the new experiences I’d had and I knew that the secrets and untold stories of the West coast shoreline would run deep inside my veins for many more moons to come.
