There are road trips where the destination is the prize, and then there are those where the road is the reason you came. Naturally, the drive to Rhodes in the Eastern Cape Highlands belongs in the second category.
Beyond Barkly East, the landscape begins to change. The traffic thins, the roads narrow and gravel replaces tar as the mountains gather around the horizon. And somewhere along the way, the city suddenly feels very far away.
This road trip is for long stretches behind the wheel, black coffee at a roadside stop, music playing low and scenery that makes conversation fall away for a while.
And then there is Rhodes. Tucked beneath the southern Drakensberg near the Lesotho border, the village sits at roughly 1,820m above sea level. It was laid out on the farm Tintern and proclaimed in 1891, and its historic character has been protected since it was declared a conservation area in 1997.
Getting there takes effort, and as we all know, anything that challenges you rewards you immensely.
The scenic route
Barkly East is the sensible gateway to Rhodes. From here, the R396 runs for about 60km towards the village, mostly over gravel. Tiffindell advises travellers to fuel up in Barkly East, as there are no fuel stations in Rhodes or at the resort.
The road is the attraction.
The Eastern Cape Highlands unfolds in broad layers of grass-covered mountains, valleys and streams. There are few dramatic tourist signposts here. Instead, the landscape rewards you for slowing down and pulling over when a view catches you.
Give yourself time. Drive during daylight, check conditions before leaving and remember that the weather can change quickly at different altitudes. Most importantly, do not rush the gravel.
The road-trip playlist
Every long drive needs an iconic soundtrack. For this one, think atmospheric rather than energetic.
Leaving the city:
Holocene by Bon Iver
Bloom by The Paper Kites
Rivers and Roads by The Head and the Heart
Somewhere in the Highlands:
Ends of the Earth by Lord Huron
Old Pine by Ben Howard
Sweet Disposition by The Temper Trap
Arriving in Rhodes:
A Moment Apart by ODESZA
The Stable Song by Gregory Alan Isakov
Keep the volume low enough to hear the gravel under the tyres.
Follow the mountain passes
Rhodes is surrounded by some of the Eastern Cape’s most striking mountain roads.
Naudé’s Nek Pass connects Rhodes and Maclear via the R396, climbing to roughly 2,590m above sea level. At around 33km, it’s a spectacular route through the southern Drakensberg and one of South Africa’s highest mountain passes.
In winter, snow transforms the high country into something almost alpine.
As tempting as it is to tackle the entire pass, you don’t need to in order to experience the glory of it. Drive a section, find a safe place to stop and let the mountains dictate the pace.
The roads are remote and conditions can be challenging, so check locally before setting out, particularly after rain or during winter.
Let Rhodes slow you down
The village itself is tiny, historic and wonderfully removed from the usual tourist circuit. It’s old buildings, wide mountain views and quiet streets make it the kind of place where plans begin to loosen.
Walk through the village. Sit on a stoep. Have a long lunch. Read a few pages and watch the mountains change colour in the afternoon.
For couples, the romance is understated. There are no grand gestures required. It’s simply the pleasure of being somewhere together where very little competes for your attention.
The surrounding landscape offers plenty for more adventurous travellers too. Rhodes is known for hiking, mountain biking, birding, horse riding and fly-fishing, while local operators can arrange visits to rock-art sites.
The Wild Trout Association manages more than 200km of running water in the Eastern Cape Highlands, with permits available for fishing on designated waters.
Stay for the quiet
For a classic Rhodes stay, Walkerbouts Inn overlooks the village and surrounding mountains. The property occupies the site of the original farmhouse on Tintern, the farm on which Rhodes was established, and has operated as an inn since the 1990s.
For more space, Kinmel Guest Farm & Lodge is about 1.5km outside Rhodes, with hiking, fly-fishing, birding and mountain-biking opportunities nearby.
Whichever you choose, pack layers. At this altitude, evenings can be cold and conditions can change quickly.
Take the long way home
If conditions allow, Naudé’s Nek provides an alternative route between Rhodes and Maclear. It’s a remote mountain road and should definitely not be treated casually, particularly in poor weather. Check conditions locally before leaving and make sure your vehicle is suitable for the road.
Otherwise, return the way you came, via Barkly East. The point is not to conquer every mountain road, it’s to spend a little longer on the road.
The luxury of having nowhere to be
Perhaps that is what makes Rhodes such a satisfying road-trip destination.
The journey takes time. The gravel slows you down. The mountains make you stop. The distance from the city creates room for something that is increasingly difficult to find: a few hours without somewhere else to be.
You arrive for the scenery, the mountain passes, the village or the promise of a quiet weekend. But somewhere between Barkly East and Rhodes, the journey starts to become the destination.
The music gets quieter. The mountains get bigger. And for a little while, there is nowhere else you need to be.
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