Craft beer hits the City of Gold

Posted on 11 February 2013

Once a trend gains momentum in Jozi, it becomes explosive. It’s all anyone talks about and if you’re not in the know, you’ll soon be exiled from the cool crowd. Remember the queues of people snaking through malls trying to get their hands on a Cinnabon? What about when Groupon and Wicount first launched – we were all frantically buying the latest restaurant or spa deal. Those are trends that appear to have faded- but the craft beer trend is here to stay.

Craft beer first took off in the USA and Europe, with jet setting South Africans bringing the knowledge home. Quite quickly, the mass produced SAB brands just weren’t good enough for beer connoisseurs, which led to small breweries selling their aromatic and flavourful produce at local markets in Jozi and Cape Town. Fans of craft beer love the distinctive taste, and the fact that it has a far shorter shelf life and less preservatives and additives than its more commercial counterparts.  It’s as much about the story as it is about the taste- craft beer brings an entrepreneurial spirit to it that people can connect with and want to support. A flurry of Cape Town restaurants and bars, including the renowned & Union, Hudson’s Burger Bar and Power & the Glory, were quick to respond and added craft beer to their menus, with a few sharp Jozi restaurateurs following suit.

Founded by the guys behind the popular Doppio Zero and Piza E Vino chain of restaurants, Parktown North’s Foundry Café opened its doors in September 2012. With a professional coffee roaster on site, as well as 23 different craft beers on offer, it is a kitchen, roastworks and craft bar. Clearly there’s a wealth of experience behind the restaurant, because it just oozes trendiness. Foundry has gotten it right- the open kitchen, outside deck and adjacent bar complimented by irregular shaped glass blown lamps and rough wooden furniture all blend together into the ultimate dining experience.  The restaurant is a much bigger area than what you’d usually find in the Parkhurst/ Parktown North area, but still, at any given time they find themselves fully booked well in advance.The Parkhurst restaurants scene is enriched by the addition of Foundry Café, providing locals and visitors with a remarkable culinary destination.

The menu offers a great selection of dishes to suit most tastes. To start, try the charcuterie and cheese plank (R130) – a selection of cheese with marinated olives, chilli roasted almonds and preserves. Served with wood-fired sourdough flatbread, this claims to feed two but actually feeds four. Prices for mains are on the high side but their uniqueness almost excuses the steep price tag. Among the four pizza choices is an “Empire butter chicken with masala pineapple, cracked poppadum, raita and fresh coriander” option (R94) as well as a “Field mushrooms with parmesan cream, spring onion, garlic and parsley” pizza (R85). In addition, you’ll find a variety of salads on the menu, as well as a selection of seafood and meat dishes. The handmade ravioli with field mushrooms, feta and spring onions in a burnt butter and sage sauce topped with pine nuts and rocket, R88, is a winner, as is the trip of lamb, pork and beef sausages with house-made potato gnocchi and onion gravy (R89). Foundry’s bar is relatively small but draws a huge crowd, especially on weekends.

 

The newer gastropub on the block is the Griffin, situated on the upper level of the recently revived Illovo Junction. Opened by the founders of The Attic in Parkhurst, this is more a bar than a restaurant and attracts trendy yuppies that flock to its slick establishment to get their craft beer fix. Free wifi 24/7 is a crowd puller, as is the warm service and attention to detail.

Foodies won’t be left disappointed – the Griffin’s prices are reasonable and quality is a key focus. The chef tries to buy in as little as possible- the stock in the gravy is made in house, as is the ice cream. Have some gourmet bar snacks first- a bowl of olives with goat’s feta will set you back R20, while sautéed Spanish chorizo with potato is priced at R35. Some of the signature dishes include beer battered fresh hake and hand cut chips, served with jalapeno tartar sauce and pickled onion (R85) and The Griffin gourmet burger with bacon and emmenthal, pickle, hand cut chips and salad (R80).

One downside of The Griffin’s popularity is that the spot gets extremely noisy; however this is something the owners are working on resolving. Under 23s aren’t allowed at night, but during the day even kids are welcome and have their own menu. The Griffin prides itself on its Sunday roasts, which change every week and are priced at R120. An example of the roast is a free range, organic, deboned chicken stuffed with sultanas, apricots and onions. This is then sliced into medallions and served with crispy roasted potatoes, bread sauce and seasonal roasted vegetables.

 

If you’re not a foodie and just want the beer, both Foundry and The Griffin accept table reservations for drinks only. Or hold out for the Jozi Craft Beer Fest, happening on 4 May 2013 at Marks Club, Emmarentia, where you can sample the best of South African craft beer while listening to funky music outdoors in the sunshine. 17 craft breweries will be showcasing close to 100 different beers, and artisanal food stalls will be offering paella, gourmet free range burgers and “the best ribs on earth”. Want to get your craft beer fix at home? Visit www.5ounces.co.za or www.leagueofbeers.com to order online.

Reservations are a must for both restaurants; call Foundry on 011 447 5828, The Griffin on 011 447 9842.

 

For more restaurant ideas in and around Jozi read my personal blog www.joziliciousblog.co.za or follow me on Twitter, @hasmita




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